Standard cabinet widths, depths and heights, counter and upper-cabinet heights, clearances above a cooktop, and the code minimums that govern them.
Because it leaves the standard 19½″ of backsplash above a 36″ countertop. From that line the cabinet height decides where the kitchen stops: 30″ ends at 84″, 36″ at 90″, 42″ at 96″ — an eight-foot ceiling exactly.
Read it in full →No — they climb in 3″ steps: 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36, then 42. Your wall will never be a multiple of three, which is precisely why fillers exist.
Read it in full →Because it occupies more wall than the box is wide. BBC36-42 is a 36″ cabinet that eats 42″ of wall once its filler pulls it clear of the corner so both doors can open. Always plan with the second number.
Read it in full →A base cabinet has one adjustable shelf. A wall cabinet has one up to 24″ high, two at 30″ and 36″, and three at 42″. They sit on pins in a drilled column, so you can move them or add more.
Read it in full →Only the height, and therefore where the kitchen ends. Under an 8 ft ceiling a 30″ upper leaves a foot of gap, a 36″ leaves half a foot, and a 42″ goes right to the ceiling — most storage, cleanest line, top shelf you need a stool for.
Read it in full →Yes, and it is a deliberate move — a shallow upper over a coffee station, a 24″ pantry at the end of a 12″ run. Put the deeper piece at the end of a run rather than the middle, and add an end panel so the step reads as intentional.
Read it in full →One at every end of every run, every inside corner, and beside every tall appliance — typically 1–3″ lost per wall. A plan that adds up to your wall length exactly is a plan that will not fit.
Read it in full →That the door covers virtually the whole box front, leaving only a hairline — about ⅛″ — between doors. It is the frameless standard, and it is what gives a modern kitchen its continuous face.
Read it in full →The visible gap around and between doors. On a full-overlay kitchen it is roughly ⅛″. An even reveal along a whole run is the clearest single difference between a professional install and a rushed one.
Read it in full →To cut it to the exact shape of a wall that is not straight: hold it in place, run a compass down the wall so the pencil traces every bump, then trim to the line. It is how a rigid run finishes tight against a wavy wall.
Read it in full →The face. A standard base gives you one 6″ drawer over a door with a shelf behind it; a drawer base of the same width gives you three drawers, 6″ + 12″ + 12″, or two deep ones. Same box, same footprint, completely different daily experience — drawers bring the contents to you, doors make you kneel.
Read it in full →Work out the leftover on the wall after the cabinets are laid out, then take the next size up and cut it down — a filler is always trimmed on site, never stretched. A 3″ filler covers most end-of-run and corner situations; reach for 6″ when you are closing a bigger gap beside an appliance, or when a door needs to clear a wall or a projecting casing.
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