Reference · Glossary

Cabinet Words, in Plain English

Reveal, scribe, stile, blind corner, high loop. The quote, the spec sheet and the installer all assume you know these — here they are, one line each.

🔍 Type to filter📚 72 terms🔗 Linked to the guide

Nothing in a kitchen is complicated once it has a name. Most of the confusion in a first renovation is vocabulary — a quote that says “3″ scribe filler, MBEP24, full overlay” is telling you something perfectly simple in a language nobody taught you.

A The box

Boxes & construction

Carcass
The box itself — sides, bottom, back and rails — before any door goes on. Also called the cabinet body.
Frameless (European)
A cabinet with no face frame: the ¾″ box edge is the front. You get the full interior width, and doors cover the box. See the chapter →
Face frame
The North American alternative — a solid wood frame across the front of the box. Stronger-looking, but it narrows the opening by an inch or more each side.
Rails (box)
The horizontal strips across the front and back of a base cabinet’s open top, and the strips on the back that you screw through into the wall.
Gable
A cabinet’s side panel. “Finished gable” means that side will be visible and comes in your door finish.
Toe kick
The 4½″ recess at the floor, and the board that covers it. Your cabinet’s adjustable feet live behind it.
Particleboard / PB
Engineered board made of pressed wood chips, usually faced in melamine. The standard cabinet box material — flat, stable, and unforgiving of standing water.
Plywood
Cross-laminated veneers. Lighter, holds a screw better and survives a leak longer than particleboard.
MDF
Medium-density fibreboard. Very smooth, so it is the usual substrate for painted doors; heavy, and it swells if water gets into a raw edge.
Melamine
The tough resin-impregnated surface bonded to board. What the inside of most cabinets is finished with.
Edge banding
The thin strip that seals a cut board edge. Any edge you cut on site is raw until you band or seal it.
Panel density
How much the board weighs per cubic foot — the honest measure of a core. Cabinet-grade particleboard runs about 41–44 lb/cu ft and door-grade MDF about 47–50. Denser board holds a screw harder and cuts a crisper edge. See the numbers →
EPA Title VI
The North-American cap on formaldehyde emissions from composite wood panels. A compliance claim about indoor air, not about strength — ask any supplier for it.
RTA
Ready-to-assemble — the cabinet arrives flat-packed and you build it. Cheaper to ship, and an evening’s work per few boxes. Watch it assembled →
B The face

Doors, drawers & fronts

Full overlay
Doors that cover almost the whole box front, leaving only a hairline between them. The frameless standard.
Partial overlay
Doors that cover part of the frame, leaving a wide painted border between doors. Cheaper, and unmistakably dated to some eyes.
Inset
Doors that sit inside the frame, flush with the front. Beautiful, expensive, and merciless about seasonal movement.
Reveal
The visible gap around and between doors — about ⅛″ on a full-overlay kitchen. Even reveals are the single clearest sign of a good install. How to tune them →
Stile
The vertical member of a framed (Shaker) door.
Rail (door)
The horizontal member of a framed door, top and bottom.
Centre panel
The flat panel held inside the stiles and rails of a Shaker door, usually set back about ¼″.
Slab door
A flat, one-piece front. The modern look, and the easiest to wipe clean.
Shaker door
A five-piece door — two stiles, two rails, one flat centre panel. The default “transitional” kitchen.
PET laminate
Polyethylene terephthalate — a tough sheet (0.45 mm on our high-gloss fronts) laminated to an MDF core. Thick enough to be a material rather than a printed skin, which is where the gloss depth and the moisture resistance come from.
Thermofoil
A vinyl film vacuum-pressed onto MDF. Seamless and cheap; vulnerable to heat, which is why it must be kept clear of oven steam.
False front
A drawer front that does not open — the panel across the top of a sink base, where the bowl is in the way.
Drawer box
The container that slides. Separate from the drawer front, which is the piece you see and which is adjusted to line up with its neighbours.
Handing
Which side a door is hinged. “Left-hand” usually means the hinges are on the left as you face it — confirm the convention before you order.
C The metal

Hardware

Concealed / European hinge
The cup-and-arm hinge you cannot see when the door is shut. Adjusts three ways after installation. Adjusting it →
Hinge cup
The 35 mm round recess bored into the back of the door that the hinge body sits in.
Mounting plate
The bracket screwed to the cabinet side that the hinge arm clips onto. The height adjustment lives here.
Soft-close
A damper that catches the last inch of travel. Built into modern hinges and runners, or added as a clip-on.
Steel drawer side
A drawer system where the metal side wall is the runner. The 16 mm bottom and back panels drop into it, so there is no four-sided wooden box to work loose. What it is made of →
Undermount slide
Drawer runners hidden beneath the box — you see only wood when the drawer is open. The current standard.
Side-mount slide
Runners on the sides of the drawer box. Cheaper, visible, and easier to retrofit.
Full extension
A runner that brings the whole drawer clear of the cabinet, so nothing is lost at the back.
Shelf pin
The small metal support that carries an adjustable shelf, sitting in one of a drilled column of holes.
Lift / stay lift
A gas-strut mechanism that swings a wide door upward instead of sideways — used over a sink or a peninsula.
Anti-tip bracket
The floor or wall bracket that stops a free-standing range pivoting forward. Ships with the range; not optional. Why →
Cam lock
A twist-to-lock fastener used in some flat-pack furniture. Note that Flip boxes are screwed together instead — stronger, and repairable.
D The fit

Fitting, fillers & trim

Filler
A plain strip of finished material — usually 3″ or 6″ — used to close the gap between a cabinet and a wall, a corner or an appliance. Where you need them →
Scribe
To cut a piece to match a wall that is not straight, by tracing the wall’s shape onto it with compasses and trimming to the line. What fillers and end panels are for.
End panel
A finished panel that covers the exposed side of a cabinet at the end of a run. Made oversize so it can be scribed.
Blind corner
A corner cabinet where part of the interior is hidden behind the neighbouring run. Cheap, cavernous, awkward without a pull-out.
Easy reach
An L-shaped corner cabinet with its door on the corner itself, so nothing is hidden.
Lazy Susan
A rotating shelf that brings the back of a corner cabinet to you.
Light rail
The small moulding under the wall cabinets that hides under-cabinet lighting and its wiring.
Crown moulding
The trim at the top of the wall cabinets. Sold in 8 ft sticks and mitred at the corners.
Soffit / bulkhead
The boxed-in section of ceiling above the wall cabinets. You can fill it, trim to it, or remove it.
Backsplash
The wall surface between counter and wall cabinets — the standard gap is 19½″.
Overhang
How far the countertop projects past the cabinet face — 1½″ on a normal run, 12–15″ where stools go under an island.
Waterfall
A countertop that turns the corner and runs to the floor at the end of an island.
Panel-ready
An appliance built to accept a door in your kitchen’s finish, so it disappears into the run. Ordered with the cabinets, not after.
E The site

On install day

Level
Horizontal. Checked with a spirit or laser level — and never assumed from the floor.
Plumb
Vertical. A wall can be flat and still not plumb, which is why cabinets get shimmed.
Square
Corners at a true 90°. Test a room by comparing its diagonals. How →
Shim
A thin tapered wedge driven behind or under a cabinet to bring it level or plumb. Snap off the excess.
Stud
The vertical framing member inside the wall, usually every 16″. The only thing a wall cabinet may be screwed into.
Ledger board
A temporary straight board screwed to the wall for the wall cabinets to rest on while you fix them. The single best trick for hanging alone.
Reference line
The level line drawn from the floor’s highest point that every cabinet is set to. The floor is not the reference; this line is. Why →
High point
The highest spot on an uneven floor. All heights are measured up from there, so no cabinet ever has to be cut down.
High loop
The dishwasher drain hose looped up under the counter before it drops to the trap, so sink water cannot flow back into the machine.
Rough-in
The plumbing, wiring and ducting put in before anything covers the wall.
Template
Either a paper pattern that comes with an appliance, or the on-site measuring visit a stone fabricator makes before cutting your countertop.
Cut-out
The hole in a countertop or cabinet for a sink, cooktop or appliance — always smaller than the appliance itself.
F The paperwork

Buying words

SKU
The catalogue code for one item — B18, W3030, SB36. How to read one →
Linear foot
A foot of cabinet run, measured along the wall. The unit the trade sizes a kitchen in — and a rough one, since it says nothing about what is inside the boxes.
Classic / Delight / Grand
Flip’s three door tiers — different constructions and palettes, not three grades of one door. Compared →
Stock / semi-custom / custom
Fixed sizes off a list; fixed sizes with choices of finish and interior; or made to your dimensions. Lead time grows in that order too.
Lead time
How long between ordering and delivery. Plan the demolition around it, not the other way round.
Elevation
A straight-on drawing of one wall, showing what each cabinet is and how high it sits. The drawing an installer actually works from.
Plan view
The bird’s-eye drawing of the kitchen — good for flow and clearances, useless for heights.
? People also ask

Straight answers

What does “full overlay” mean on a kitchen cabinet?+

That the door covers virtually the whole front of the box, leaving only a hairline — about ⅛″ — between neighbouring doors. It is the standard on frameless European cabinets and is what gives a modern kitchen its continuous face. Partial overlay leaves a wide border of frame showing; inset doors sit flush inside the frame.

What is a reveal on a cabinet door?+

The visible gap around and between doors and drawer fronts. On a full-overlay kitchen it is roughly ⅛″. Because every door is adjustable at the hinge, an even reveal all the way along a run is the clearest visual difference between a professional install and a rushed one.

What does it mean to scribe a filler?+

To cut it to the exact shape of a wall that is not straight. You hold the filler in place, run a compass down the wall so its point follows every bump while the pencil marks a matching line, then trim to that line. It is how a rigid cabinet run finishes tight against a wavy wall.

What is the difference between a stile and a rail?+

On a framed door, stiles run vertically and rails run horizontally. A Shaker door is two stiles, two rails and a flat centre panel — five pieces. Cabinet boxes also have rails: the strips across the open top of a base cabinet, and the strips on the back you screw through into the studs.

What is a ledger board and do I need one?+

A straight board temporarily screwed to the wall along your level line, so wall cabinets can rest on it while you drive the screws. You do not strictly need one, but it turns a two-person job into a one-person job and it guarantees every cabinet lands on the same line. Remove it after and fill the screw holes.

What is a high loop, and why does it matter?+

The dishwasher’s drain hose routed up as high as possible under the countertop before it drops down to the disposal or trap. Gravity then keeps dirty sink water from flowing back into the machine. It costs nothing, takes a minute, and is one of the first things an inspector looks for.

What is the difference between PET and melamine on a cabinet door?+

Thickness, and therefore behaviour. PET is a 0.45 mm laminated sheet used on high-gloss fronts — deep colour, moisture resistant, tolerant of household acids and alkalis. Melamine is a 0.02 mm resin-impregnated laminate that takes colour and embossed grain beautifully and hides fingerprints. Both are factory-applied, so neither fades and every door matches.

Now put it to work

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