Buying guides · Cabinets

Stock, RTA, Semi-Custom or Custom?

Four ways to buy the same kitchen, and one question that matters more than all of them: how the box is built. Here is how a cabinet company would tell you to choose.

📦 4 ways to buy⏱ 8 min read🔄 Reviewed August 2026

Cabinet shopping is confusing on purpose. Every showroom uses the same four words — stock, RTA, semi-custom, custom — to mean slightly different things, and none of those words tells you the thing that actually matters, which is how the box is built and what is inside the drawer. This is the map: what each category really is, which one your room needs, and the six specifications worth arguing about.

00 The map

Two questions, not one

“What kind of cabinets should I buy” is really two independent questions, and mixing them up is why showroom visits go in circles.

  • How is it made to order? — stock and ready-to-assemble, assembled stock, semi-custom, or full custom. This decides price, lead time and how far the sizes bend
  • How is the box built? — framed (a face frame across the front) or frameless (European, full-overlay). This decides how it looks, and how much of the inside you can actually reach

You can have a cheap frameless kitchen and an expensive framed one, or the reverse. Decide them separately.

What they search at midnight “are RTA cabinets any good” — yes, and the reason has nothing to do with them being flat-packed.

At a glance

Four ways to buy the same kitchen

TypeSizesTypical waitWho assemblesBest for
RTA / flat-packStandard incrementsDays to weeksYou (or your installer)DIY, value, fast projects
Assembled stockStandard incrementsDays to weeksArrives builtNo time, no space to build
Semi-customStandard, with modificationsWeeksArrives builtAwkward walls, more finishes
Full customAnything you drawMonthsArrives builtOld houses, unusual rooms, no compromises

Deliberately no prices — they move with material, finish, region and week. What is stable is the ordering: RTA is the least expensive way to buy a given quality of box, and full custom is the most, with the two middle options doing what their names say.

01 Flat-pack

RTA — ready to assemble

RTA / flat-pack

Best for anyone willing to trade a weekend for a large chunk of the budget

The same panels, doors, hinges and runners as an assembled cabinet — delivered flat, because most of what you pay for in an assembled box is air and labour. Shipping a cube of empty space across a country is expensive; shipping a stack of flat panels is not.

What it actually asks of you: floor space to build in, a drill, and a methodical afternoon. Every box is the same handful of moves repeated, and once you have built two you can build twenty. The honest risks are damage in transit on cheap packaging, and cabinets that arrive with vague instructions from suppliers who have never watched a customer build one.

Strong
  • The most cabinet quality per dollar
  • Flat boxes go up stairs and round corners that built ones cannot
  • Damaged panels can be replaced individually
Weak
  • You need space, time and a driver
  • Instructions and packaging vary wildly by supplier
  • A badly built box is a badly hanging door forever

If you go this way, build the whole kitchen before install day rather than box by box on the wall — it turns the fitting into one clean run. The assembly sequence is animated here, on a real 3-drawer base.

02 Built

Assembled stock

Assembled stock cabinets

Best when time or space is worth more than the saving

Identical range, identical sizes, built at the factory. You are buying back your weekend, plus the certainty that every box is square. In a small apartment with nowhere to build, or on a project where the trades are booked and the clock is running, that is worth real money.

The trade beyond price is logistics: built cabinets are bulky. Tall pantry units and wide sink bases have to physically get up the stairs and around the turn at the top, and a damaged panel usually means the whole cabinet goes back rather than one part being reshipped.

03 Bent to fit

Semi-custom

Semi-custom

Best when the room is nearly standard, but not quite

A stock catalogue that will bend: a cabinet made narrower, a run made shallower to clear a doorway, a taller upper to close to the ceiling, finishes and door styles the base range does not carry. You stay inside a system — which keeps it affordable and repeatable — while buying your way out of the two or three places the system does not fit.

Watch the lead time and the modification list. Every change is a line item and a delay, and past a certain number of modifications you are paying custom money for a stock box. Ask what the change actually costs in weeks, not only in currency.

04 Drawn from scratch

Full custom

Full custom cabinetry

Best for old houses, odd rooms, and kitchens that must be exactly right

Made to your drawing in a joinery shop: any width, any height, any finish, curved ends, integrated appliance panels, a bench seat that becomes a pantry. If your room has sloping ceilings, a chimney breast, or a wall that is two inches out over its length, custom simply absorbs it.

The costs are money, time and dependency. Lead times run into months, changes after drawings are signed are expensive, and the quality is entirely the shop’s — there is no brand standard behind it. Ask to see finished kitchens they built three years ago, not the ones they installed last week.

05 The other axis

Framed or frameless — the choice that changes the inside

Independent of how you buy, a cabinet is built one of two ways, and it matters more day to day than most people expect.

Framed (face frame)
  • A frame across the front of the box; doors hang on it
  • Traditional North American look, and the only way to get true inset doors
  • The frame narrows the opening — and a centre stile can sit right in the middle of a two-door cabinet
  • Extra rigidity, which matters on a plywood box
Frameless (European)
  • No frame — the front edge is the panel itself, and the door covers the whole box
  • The full width of the box is usable; drawers are wider in the same footprint
  • Clean, modern lines; slim reveals between doors
  • Door gaps are set entirely by the hinges, so a level box matters more

Flip cabinets are frameless, full-overlay and flat-packed — which is why the install chapter keeps insisting on levelling: with no face frame to hide behind, the boxes have to be right before the doors go on.

06 The real test

What actually separates a good cabinet from a bad one

None of it is the category on the price list. Six things decide whether a kitchen still closes properly in ten years.

  • The box materialPlywood, furniture board or MDF — each is fine when specified honestly and awful when it is the cheapest sheet the factory could buy. Ask the thickness as well as the material; ¾″ sides are not the same animal as ½″.AskWhat is the panel material and thickness, on the sides, the bottom and the back?
  • The edge bandingThe strip on every exposed edge is where water gets in. Thin, heat-glued banding lifts at the sink within a few years; thicker banding, properly bonded, does not.AskHow thick is the edge banding, and how is it bonded?
  • The drawer box and runnersThis is where the money shows. Full-extension, soft-close undermount runners from a known maker will outlive the kitchen; side-mounted rollers that only pull two-thirds out will annoy you daily.AskWhose runners and hinges, and what is the warranty on them?
  • The hingesSix-way adjustable, soft-close, from a brand you can still buy parts for in five years. Cheap hinges cannot be tuned back into line once the box settles.AskCan a door be adjusted in all three directions after installation?
  • The finish on the doorsPainted, thermofoil, melamine, laminate or veneer — each behaves differently next to a dishwasher vent or a sunny window. Steam and UV are what age a kitchen, not fingerprints.AskHow does this finish handle steam beside the dishwasher and direct sun?
  • Whether the parts around the boxes are includedFillers, end panels, toe kick, scribes, trim: they are what makes a kitchen look built rather than assembled, and they are routinely missing from a cheap quote.AskDoes this quote include fillers, panels and toe kick — and how many?
The quote comparison trick

Two quotes for “the same kitchen” are almost never the same kitchen. Put them side by side on cabinet count, box material, runner and hinge brand, and the filler-and-panel list, and the cheaper one usually turns out to be missing three things you will have to buy anyway. Designing the layout yourself first, in real cabinet sizes, makes this comparison possible — because you already know exactly how many of each box the room needs.

The decision

Pick in one line

  • You are doing the work yourself and want the best box for the money. RTA, frameless — and build the whole kitchen before install day.
  • You have no space and no weekend. Assembled stock.
  • The room is standard except for one awkward wall. Stock plus fillers first; semi-custom only if fillers genuinely cannot solve it.
  • Sloped ceilings, a chimney breast, or a 1920s house that is square nowhere. Full custom, or a frameless system with generous filler and scribe panels.
  • You want inset doors and a traditional look. Framed — that is the one thing frameless genuinely cannot give you.
? People also ask

Straight answers

Are RTA (flat-pack) cabinets good quality?+

The quality lives in the panels, hinges and runners, not in whether the box arrives built. A good RTA cabinet and the same cabinet assembled at the factory are the same cabinet; you are paying for labour and for shipping air. Flat-pack also has practical advantages: the boxes fit up stairs, and a damaged panel can be replaced on its own.

What is the difference between framed and frameless cabinets?+

Framed cabinets have a face frame across the front that the doors hang on, which narrows the opening and can put a centre stile in the middle of a two-door cabinet. Frameless, or European, cabinets have no frame, so the door covers the whole box and the full interior width is usable. Framed is the traditional North American look and the only way to get true inset doors; frameless gives more usable space and slimmer gaps.

What is the difference between stock, semi-custom and custom cabinets?+

Stock comes in fixed sizes from a catalogue and ships fastest. Semi-custom is that same catalogue with modifications allowed, such as a narrower box, a shallower depth or an extra finish, at the cost of weeks. Custom is made to your drawing in any size or finish, with the longest lead time and the highest price, and its quality depends entirely on the shop that builds it.

How long do kitchen cabinets take to arrive?+

Stock and RTA are typically days to a few weeks, semi-custom runs into weeks because every modification is a production step, and full custom is commonly months. Ask for the lead time in writing before you book an installer, and add contingency: trades booked around an optimistic delivery date is the classic way a renovation stalls.

Do I need custom cabinets for an old house?+

Usually not. Most awkward rooms are solved with standard boxes plus fillers, scribe panels and end panels, which is what those parts exist for. Custom earns its money when the geometry itself is impossible, such as a sloped ceiling, a curved wall or a chimney breast that has to be wrapped.

Is it cheaper to assemble cabinets yourself?+

Yes, and it is usually the single largest saving available on the cabinetry line, because factory assembly and shipping built boxes are both expensive. What it costs you is floor space, a drill and a methodical afternoon or two. If you are already doing your own installation, assembling is the easy part by comparison.

What should I ask a cabinet supplier before ordering?+

Six things: the panel material and thickness, the edge banding thickness and bonding, whose hinges and drawer runners are used and their warranty, how the doors are finished, whether fillers, end panels and toe kick are included in the quote, and the real lead time. Two quotes for the same kitchen usually differ on the last two.

Can I mix cabinet types in one kitchen?+

Mixing brands within a run is risky, because door colours, overlays and reveal gaps rarely match exactly, and the mismatch reads as an error. Mixing within one range is normal and often smart: stock boxes everywhere, with a custom panel or a made-to-size filler in the one spot the catalogue cannot reach.

Your turn

Know the box list before you ask for a price.

Lay out your real room in real cabinet sizes, then compare quotes on the same list of boxes, fillers and panels.

Open the 3D planner →